Learning to Look
I recently hosted a workshop at my house for a wonderful group of weavers. We all gathered to learn at the feet of weaving guru and incredibly generous teacher Ute Bargmann. She had set up a couple of darling little (these are deceptively cute while being amazingly sturdy, useful and well engineered) Structo looms to demonstrate how to weave overshot “as-drawn-in” without using a treadling draft at all. “What? Impossible” You say. We all thought so too, but with a firm hand Ute guided us through the process. In a nutshell this involves
- absorbing the fact that overshot is a twill derivative
- starting at the right selvedge
- observing which pair of shafts gives you the first block of threads that are down
- weaving the number of threads in this block minus one
- trying the next pair in the twill circle (if the first block down is 3,4 then you know that the next block will either be a 2,3 or a 1,4) and you will see which block follows the twill direction
- weaving that next block with the number of threads you count in the block minus one.
- do this until you come to a block with a odd number of threads which tells you that it is a turning block – weave an even number of picks
- then change direction in the twill circle. Voila!!
So simple as Ute explained it, right? Of course, after everyone left I tried it on my own. I couldn’t quite see how to start so I improvised and looked at the heddles instead of the warp threads. I observed that the first block was threaded on 1,2 and had 2 threads, so I raised shafts 1,2 and wove one pick. I used this method for the first few blocks until I could observe the diagonal in the woven cloth. It didn’t look like Ute’s. Hmmm? Can you see the problem? Mine is the sample on the loom . . .
I was using the threaded heddles as my guide for what to raise when you are supposed to look at the lowered warp threads to determine which is the next block. Ute came over to give me a follow-up lesson laughed when she saw my sample. “Oh my god! you have simulated weaving overshot on a counterbalance loom!” Anyway, with a firm, guiding voice she walked me through it again. These are Ute’s little “end-of-warp” shuttles from The Woolery. Aren’t they wonderful.
And I wove my sample. I am going to practice some more and try to beat square (hard to do while trying to keep my wits about me and my correct tabby order – it is critical to set your tabby up with 1,3 being woven from the right and 2,4 being woven from the left.) But boy, it is really empowering to master this. Ute said she was taught this way, and it has been critical during demonstrations where people are talking and asking questions and one needs to be able to find one’s place by reading the cloth.
Thanks Ute for the power to look!!
Argh, my brain hurts! lol
We are doing some little overshot coasters (mug rugs?) at our guild as a project to do with some visiting weavers from Japan. My coaster is going to be very rectangular due to the beautiful, fat, hairy handspun I’m using. It looks fabulous though 🙂
I know!! I am also a renegade when it comes to “squared” weaving. I don’t see any problem with elongation as long as you choose it!!
Hi. First, I want to say how much I enjoyed your recent Endnotes article in Handwoven. Serendipity is a wonderful thing!!!! I have struggled with how to make my weaving more that what it is already.
And I struggle with the whole “overshot should be square” thing too. I love overshot, yet any time I weave overshot it comes out elongated. I may need to weight my beater…
Anyway, all the best.
Allen (Endnotes, Handwoven, Sept. Oct. 2012)
Thanks for the comment Allen. I checked out your blog and I look forward to some pics! Do you have any cowboy boots with the woven tops? I always wanted to weave some fabric for boot tops. I once saw a shop in Peru where you could bring textile pieces and have them made into shoes. It was mostly tapestry-type fabric, but can’t you see a pair of boots with an overshot on top?? You should do it! What is your Etsy shop called?
I am a bit embarrassed because I haven’t updated my blog in YEARS…. argggghh.
I own too many pairs of boots… at least according to my wife, but none with woven tops. This idea intrigues me, though. My etsy shop (inactive for the past year, though) is the same as my email (before the suffix).
I don’t know Allen – sometimes less blogging means more weaving – hard to find the perfect balance. If you do do some boot tops – you HAVE to blog about that – with pictures!!
Will do, Elisabeth!
I guess I have been doing a lot of weaving. Right now I am getting a shawl done for a … Christmas present (don’t shoot me) and then maybe a jacket for my wife. I want to join Complex Weavers or look into the HGA COE program too.
And now you have to go and put the thought in my mind about woven cowboy boots…
So intriguing… hmmmm…. I will have to think about it.
Wait . . . a Christmas present for Xmas 2013 or Xmas 2012? If it is 2013 – you’re my hero! I think I might have a few still owed from 2011 . . . best laid plans, etc.
I could see a COE Master thesis on Woven Footwear in your future or even a CW study group.
Ummm…. 2013, believe it or not. I just finished a complex silk warp with metallic weft for a vest and needed something mindless to work on.
Your idea about woven footwear cracks me up… but is intriguing too.