Here is what I have learned so far: setting Zephyr at 28 epi and using a 20/2 silk weft results in a soft, supple fabric – a ppi of 36 gives very firmly collapsed pleats and a ppi of 32 gives softer pleats. Using the same warp and sett, but using a 10/2 bamboo weft results in lovely twill stripes with no collapse at all. Setting Bambu 12 at 28 and using a 20/2 silk weft results in a very collapse-y fabric, but it is unstable and the weft wants to pack in too tightly. The fabric is soft with firm pleats, but I am going to sett my next bamboo scarf at at least 32 perhaps 34. I have also learned that I might want to weave the scarves wider then 10” because when they collapse 10” becomes 3 – 4”. Finally, I have learned that I must weave more scarves! I have to force myself to start my scary coat project.